butternut squash risotto with mushrooms



What do you make for dinner when you are not eating gluten or sugar, and your dining companion is a vegetarian allergic to pretty much everything under the sun?

I faced this dilemma when my friend Rae came over for dinner last week.  Rae and I lived together for a stint in college, but I typically avoid cooking for her because her allergies give me a panic attack.  (Right up there with my claustrophobia is an irrational fear of accidentally giving someone anaphylaxis.)  Rae is allergic or intolerant to a laundry list of items, including, but not limited to: avocados, mangoes, peanuts, pine nuts, (she has recently outgrown her allergy to walnuts and almonds), barley, hops, and tequila (though I think she's making that one up).  On top of those aversions, she eats no land animals, and very little fish.  A much more compassionate human being than I, Rae became a vegetarian as a precocious preschooler.  She has stuck with it ever since, unlike most children who are just picky and quit their ways when their parents tell them that they have to actually eat vegetables if they want to be considered a "vegetarian".  That may have been what happened to Bollie at age 5.  My mom wasn't going to let her live on peanut butter and cheetos sandwiches forever. 

Though I am, for the most part, a neurotic control freak rational, methodical person, on the rarest of occasions I sometimes forgo logical thought processes.  Like last Thursday.  I chose risotto for our romantic dinner on an 80 degree day.  (Despite its starchy, creamy texture, risotto is actually gluten-free!)  And instead of making it with something "springy", like asparagus, I chose to make it with butternut squash.  Did I mention it was 80 degrees outside?  In my defense, it was March 15, which to me means there remain only two weeks in the Socially Acceptable Period For The Consumption of Winter Squashes.  And since I stockpile gourds like the world is going to end and I am going to be forced into a post-apocalyptic Iron Chef: Winter Squash challenge to determine who gets the last spot on the escape shuttle to outer space (because surely, knowing how to cook butternut squash will come in handy on Planet X), I decided to hone my skillz with a butternut squash risotto.  Plus, Patti made a similar dish for Friendsgiving 2011, and it was a roaring success. 

So, there I was, stirring my butternut squash risotto and straining myself to hear the NCAA tournament playing on the TV in the next room.  There's another rational thought - make the most labor-intensive, finicky dish in the history of Italian pasta when you really just want to be watching March Madness instead.  If you've never made risotto, know that it is time-consuming, tedious, and, above all, an exercise in patience.  It is kind of like a small child.  It requires devotion and constant attention, and you have to be careful how much liquid you give it.  It must be babysat, and you have to stir it gently and frequently.  But when it is done right, it's delicious, so it's worth it. 

Also, it needs to be served immediately.  It is not good if it sits out, and it's not particularly good as leftovers.  I got a late start on the risotto because I know Rae's internal clock is 20 minutes behind the rest of the world's, so it actually worked out perfectly.  I was spooning the risotto into a bowl right when she walked in my front door.  We added some mushrooms to the risotto for good measure, and we really liked the earthiness it added.  We paired our dish with a green salad (with basil! Genius thinking, Rae) and it was a delicious supper.

Butternut Squash Risotto with Mushrooms
Adapted from Williams-Sonoma
Serves 4 as main course

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 onion, minced (yellow or white)

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 1/2 cups arborio rice

4 cups vegetable stock (or chicken stock, if not making vegetarian)

1 1/2 - 2 cups butternut squash puree (one small squash)

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons minced fresh sage

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

6 ounces mushrooms, finely chopped

1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1.  Preheat oven to 450 degrees.  Roast butternut squash (halved vertically, face up in a roasting pan) in oven until soft, about an hour.  Let cool completely and scoop out the flesh.  Puree.  This can be done in advance.   

2.  In a large pot over medium heat, whisk together the stock and 1 1/2 to 2 cups squash puree. Bring just to a simmer, 8 to 10 minutes; maintain over low heat.
3.  In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, melt one tablespoon of butter and one tablespoon olive oil.  Saute onion and garlic, stirring frequently, until caramelized, about 7 minutes.

4.  Add risotto and another scant tablespoon of olive oil (if necessary) to pan and stir, until grains are coated with oil and are transparent with a white dot in the center, about 3 minutes.

5.  Stir in sage and rosemary.  Add the white wine until it is absorbed.

6.  Add the simmering stock mixture a ladleful at a time, stirring after each addition. Wait until the stock is almost completely absorbed before adding more.

7.  When the rice is almost al dente, after about 25 minutes, add the mushrooms and continue to cook as you have been - adding liquid, stirring until absorbed, and repeating. 

8. When the rice is tender to the bite but slightly firm in the center and looks creamy, after about 10-15 minutes more, stir in the remaining two tablespoons of butter, the cheese, salt, and pepper.  Add more stock if needed so the rice is thick and creamy (I added a couple more ladlefuls).  Serve immediately.

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orange crush

Bright orange might be my new hot pink. 

I bought my first pair of colored jeans.  In Oompa Loompa orange.  Thank you, H&M, for pushing me over the edge with your $25 colored denim selection.  For a girl with commitment issues (with clothing) and separation anxiety (with money), they really fit the bill.

My trusty yellow highlighter has sprouted legs and walked away from my desk at work.  Really - who took it?  This is what happens during budget cuts, y'all.  BIG problems.  I had to begin reviewing documents with fluorescent orange.  It doesn’t match the rest of my drafts, marred with yellow highlighter and red ink, but I gotta say, I don't hate it.  It really makes those words pop off the page. 

Since this weather is not too cold, I’ve been wearing a baseball cap instead of a fleece headband/earwarmers for long runs.  It is white with orange font and a friendly orange lobster.  I also wear orange noise-cancelling headphones and orange adidas sneakers.  

But it’s not all sunshine and Monarch butterflies.  My skin is going to get an orange glow if I don’t stop eating carrots, golden beets, butternut squash, and sweet potatoes.  And obviously I am not trying to look like Snooki (especially now that she is preggers - do you think her baby will be orange, too?)

Giving these beta carotene superstars the boot is not going to be that easy.  Take this winter squash puree, for instance.  This is the closest thing to candy I’ve tasted recently, and not only is it delicious, but it comes together in a flash.  Just throw sweet roasted squash with freshly grated ginger into the food processor, give it a quick whirl, and perhaps thin it out with a splash of water or milk.  Just be sure to taste as you go – it’s easy to get carried away with the spice.  When I made it for my parents a few weeks ago, even my mom, who shares my affinity for ginger, said that “se me fue la mano un poquito” which means I got a little heavy-handed.  If you don’t like ginger at all, a similar spice like cumin or curry would be awesome, too, or you could even go a more traditional route with nutmeg.  The ginger puree just happens to go swimmingly with fish.  (I swear I just wrote that and didn't even realize I had made a pun until I re-read the sentence.  Seriously, who am I?)  I could have chosen a white fish like halibut or snapper, but I decided to just go for the gusto and round out my orange meal with salmon. 

I should note that I've made this puree with both butternut squash and acorn squash.  You really can't go wrong either way, but if I had to pick favorites, I'd go with butternut squash for taste and acorn squash for ease and utility.  Choose accordingly.

Now, if only my Vitamin A overdose would improve my vision.  I’m still wearing my glasses.

Gingered Squash Puree with Pan-seared Sesame Salmon

For the squash (2-3 servings):
One winter squash, halved and seeded
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 inches peeled and minced fresh ginger root (about 1 1/2 tablespoons)
2-3 tablespoons half-and-half

1. Preheat oven to 425.  Half the squash and remove seeds. 
2. Place squash skin-side down in a roasting pan.  Drizzle flesh with olive oil and place half a tablespoon of butter inside each of the wells/cavities of the squash.  Cook in the oven until very tender, between 60 and 75 minutes.
3.  Remove from oven and let cool.  When cool enough to handle, remove the skin from the tender squash by scooping out with a spoon or simply peeling away with a knife.
4.  Place squash in food processor with one inch of peeled (I use a paring knife) and grated fresh ginger. 
5.  Puree until smooth and thin with a couple tablespoons of half and half or milk, if necessary.

For the salmon (one serving):
1 salmon filet (4 to 6 ounces)
Salt & pepper
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon gluten-free tamari soy sauce
pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
Neutral flavored oil, for pan-searing (I use canola)

1.   Place salmon skin side down on a cutting board. With a thin, sharp knife, slip the knife blade between the skin and salmon flesh with the blade facing away from you. Hold the edge of the skin on the board tightly and with your knife blade angles slightly down, slice between the skin and fish all the way to the end. Remove the skin completely.
2.   Season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper. 
3.   Mix soy sauce and sesame oil, and red pepper flakes.  Brush mixture on all sides of the filet.  Allow to sit  for 30 minutes.
4.  Remove salmon from marinade and cover one side with sesame seeds, pressing lightly to adhere.  (It doesn't really matter which side you choose, but for aesthetics I chose to use the side that was previously covered in skin.) 
5.   Heat a non-stick pan over medium heat with a tablespoon of a neutral oil.  When hot, place filets sesame side down.  Cook until sesame seeds are golden and a crust has formed. Gently turn the salmon over and turn heat to low. Cook salmon just a few minutes longer.  Your fish is done when it is firm to the touch but still a little pink in the center.  Timing will depend on the thickness of your filets - my one inch filet was done in about 7 minutes.

P.S.  On the subject of Orange Fever - Go Hoos, Beat FSU.  #HOOpS

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redemption! butternut squash and portobello multigrain pasta

Butternut squash and portobello multigrain pasta

I have a confession.  Until last night, I was terrified of butternut squash.  Every fall, when butternut squash is plentiful, flavorful, and inexpensive, I stock up, vowing to make lots of purees, soups and roasted vegetable salads all winter long.  There's just something about a butternut squash puree that reminds me of my mother’s kitchen.

However, despite my alacrity at the market, I get impatient and cowardly when it's time to face the beast.  I lug the squash home and set it on my counter.  I think about the best strategies to attack the giant gourd so that it yields the maximum number of those requisite peeled and chopped one-inch cubes.  I turn the squash several ways, putting a knife to where the globe-shaped base meets the cylindrical part.  (Does anyone know what the technical term for this is?  I just call it the shaft.)  My knife meets the tough, dull rind.  I spend minutes debating the options in my head.  "Should I peel first?  No, it couldn't possibly matter, I'm just making puree with the insides.  Okay, time to cut.  No, not that spot, let's try a different way.  No, that won't work either."  I grow impatient and frustrated.  Eventually, I tuck it away in the pantry and look at it for weeks (or months - butternut squash has a long shelf life), until I youtube some cooking videos and muster up the courage to just get it over with.  And that, my friends, is how I found myself with three pounds of butternut squash in March.

My batting average for butternut squash dishes is pretty mediocre, but considering all the prep work, they are huge PITAs. (Whitney and I are using this acronym a lot now, y’all clever readers can guess what it means.)  I have made multiple varieties of butternut squash soup and puree.  Butternut squash and apple.  Butternut squash with creme fraiche.  Curried butternut squash.  But sorry, no matter how excited I try to be about it, butternut squash soups and purees are just not that interesting!

My most valiant, but most traumatic, butternut squash attempt was a made-from-scratch butternut squash ravioli I made for my then-boyfriend.  Let me tell you – that was a true labor of love – and I will never, ever do it again.  It was pretty much a dealbreaker for my relationship (with Mr. Butternut Squash, not the boyfriend.)  First, I prepared the roasted butternut squash puree, which is a feat in and of itself (see prepping and dissection of the butternut squash, above).  Then, I made the dough from scratch and by hand.  At this point, it's probably worth mentioning that, since I lack a stand mixer, rolling pin, and pasta machine, I could have chosen to use wonton wrappers like a normal person.  But I'm a glutton for punishment.  I spent far too long carefully mixing, kneading, folding, and repeating, all the while thinking, "There is absolutely no way Giada's bony little arms can knead pasta dough.  She obviously has Mario Batali do it for her between takes."  At last, the dough was ready to be rolled thin, which I did with a wine bottle, and cut into long, wide ribbons using a sharp knife.  Next, I painstakingly spooned the puree onto dough, folded the dough over to make square pouches, and sealed and sliced off each one.  I repeated until I had two dozen slightly-misshapen ravioli.  After sealing off the last sucker, I promptly crumbled onto the floor, wiped my brow, and thanked God I had time to wash the blood, sweat, and streams of mascara off of my face.  The ravioli was imperfect, but overall it was delicious and straight from the heart.

That’s cute and all, but it's just so much less painful to make butternut squash ravioli from a package.  However, I think there's still something charming and romantic about a homemade butternut squash pasta, it just has to be manageable.  After months of searching for the perfect recipe for a rematch of the battle of the butternut, I found this one.  This recipe is not too difficult, and best of all, it does not require rolling your own pasta or bastardizing an Italian classic with foreign noodle sheets.  And, it comes from Mark Bittman, who I deeply admire for his cooking, writing, and general epicurean knowledge.

I found the recipe on epicurious, though it recently appeared in the January 2011 issue of Bon Appetit.  The glaring problem is that the recipe calls for 8 ounces of lamb, and I am the 40-day Vegetarian!  So, I made some modifications.  I subbed 8 ounces of portobella mushroom tops, which were on sale at Safeway.  Conveniently, they have a meaty texture and consistency, so when chopped into small pieces, they were a great choice to mimic the lamb.  (Note:  I said mimic, not replace.)   Also, I didn't even bother with the cilantro.  A butternut squash and mushroom combination screams out one herb to me - SAGE.  So that's what I used.  Also, Bittman calls for a kasseri or hallumi cheese - but they were each about $9 for a very small wedge, so I settled on a grated parmesan.  If you do choose to use a stronger, more exotic cheese, just remember that a little bit goes a long way.

The final product is a decadent, rich pasta dish that is totally healthy, relatively guilt-free, and 100% delicious.  It's the kind of heartwarming pasta that sticks to your soul and not your thighs.  The cinnamon gives it a lovely, earthy heat, one that I think pairs quite nicely with the sage.  Honestly, I didn’t even miss the meat!  This one is definitely a keeper.  The recipe serves four, so cut it in half if you want to woo someone special but don't want the sore arms or frustration that comes along with a homemade ravioli.    

Butternut Squash and Portobello Multigrain Pasta, the 40-day Vegetarian Way adapted from Mark Bittman 

Serves 4

2 pounds butternut squash (about 5-6 cups), peeled and cubed 
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
8 ounces portobello mushroom caps, chopped into very small pieces
3 large garlic cloves (or about 2-3 teaspoons)
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup canned chopped tomatoes, with added puree  (from 28 ounce can)*
2 cups vegetable broth
8 ounces multigrain pasta
1/2 cup chopped sage
1/2 cup parmesan cheese

1.  Preheat oven to 450°. Peel and cube squash or used a precubed package.  Toss with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper.  Roast until tender and brown around edges, using metal spatula to turn occasionally, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from oven.

2.  Heat additional olive oil, about one tablespoon, in deep, large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and onions; sauté until soft and fragrant, 7 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne; stir 1 minute. Stir in tomatoes, then broth and bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits. Reduce heat; simmer until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Stir in squash. Season with salt and pepper.

3.  Cook pasta until al dente, according to package directions.  Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.

4.  Return pasta to pot. Add mushroom mixture, half of sage, half of cheese; and toss. Add reserved cooking liquid by 1/3 cupfuls to moisten to desired level. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer pasta to bowl or plate. Sprinkle with remaining sage and cheese. 

*Note:  I didn't have canned chopped tomatoes in puree, so I used a 14-ounce can of diced tomatoes that I pulsed in the food processor a couple of times.  That works fine, but it is a little watery, so I bulked it up with a little bit of canned tomato paste.  I wish I could tell you how much, but I didn't measure.  Maybe 2 teaspoons?  Because it was a little on the watery side, I added only about half of the broth.


So, dear readers, I've talked your ear off today and now I want to hear from you.  Have you had any epic failures in the kitchen that have scared you from cooking with that ingredient ever again?  If so, what ingredients are to blame?  Maybe I can find an easy way for you to prepare it! 

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